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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.